Ulaanbaatar. Capital of Mongolia. Chaos. Traffic jams. Black taxis stop at the street when you stretch out your arm and shake your hand. Colourful, Buddhist temples. Bogd Khan palace. Smog. Yelling bus workers. Sunpath Mongolia guesthouse – most friendly and beautiful people. Visa organization for China. Chinese embassy. Waiting. Grabbed by the nipple. Hospital. Monuments. Many many gers. No running water. No access to sanitary facilities. Earth closet. Are nomads made for a permanent life in a big city? Urban planning = zero. Black market. Thömör khuur – iron mouth harp. Dirt. Horses vs. concrete. Deel – traditional clothes. Ger temple – Dashchoilin monastery, pretty unique. Yak wool and cashmere. Mutton, mutton, mutton. Curious, friendly drunk persons. No plan. Traditional show – fabulous Tumen Ekh Ensemble. Morin Khuur – Mongolian Horsehead fiddle. Good humour. Throat singing – really wow. How do they do it? North Korean restaurant and a beer brewed in North Korea and supervised by a German corporation – costs for it: 30.000 Mongolian tögrög (10 Euro). Making plans to discover North Mongolia. Finally heading north. But we will be back, UB. But now it’s time to head far far north to visit the Tsaatan community of Khövsgöl Province. We can’t wait to see the reindeers.