After a five hours drive along Enguri river through the picturesque mountain valleys of Svaneti, we arrived in Mestia – a historical village known for its unique defensive Svan Towers. From the first moment on we felt like going back in time: the old part of Mestia has cobbled streets, with a few historical buildings – Svanir, left. Cows and pigs are walking all over the narrow alleys. Governmental projects to support tourism has influenced the appearance of some parts of Mestia. The new architecture is quite controversial cause it doesn’t support the medieval heritage of the town. The main Seti square for example was completely replaced and now buildings in swiss-chalet style are framing the square. Some of the buildings seem to have no real use – cows and other animals are using them as toilets. For us it was a place full of contrasts, on the one hand we could feel the power of history and on the other it was obvious that contemporary influences are changing the face of the village. Despite this collision the region of Svaneti has a mystical atmosphere with great mountains, rivers and valleys. Away from the more touristic part of Mestia we also ate the best Ostri, a delicious, spicy beef stew with onions, red pepper, tomatoes, parsley and Svaneti salt. Yummy!